Onehunga’s strategic location between the historic portages of the major Tamaki Makaura waterways - the Waitematā via the Whau River on one border, the Manukau via the Tāmaki River in the other - and as the city’s access point via Waiuku to the Waikato, gives it a rich heritage. Valued by the mana whenua for the abundant seafood from the harbour, the Manukau was sadly all but destroyed by the working port, industrial hub and Māngere’s infamous sewage ponds. Clean-up of the ponds by Watercare, harbour restoration work, and the Taumanu foreshore restoration that created a delightful park and beach presage the transformation of the town.
New businesses are taking advantage of the well-preserved Victorian and Edwardian buildings dotting the main street mall. Auckland’s development arm Panuku now owns the wharf, adding it to its transformation plans to develop residential, work and recreation through the whole suburb.
Who lives there?
While Victorian villas and cottages change hands for $1.2 million, units and town houses can be found for low $600,000 to mid-$700,000 and apartments for $500,000. Ballots opened last month for 25 Kiwibuild apartments, which start at $380,000 for a studio, $490,000 for one-bed and $600,000 for two (occupy August 2019) and more medium density growth is expected to open up the suburb to young families.
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The town’s Maori and Pasifika roots are still strong; Indian and other Asian groups settling there more recently. Amiria Puia-Taylor, who co-founded arts precinct The 312 Hub, is typical: returning as an adult to her Mana Whenua, the Ngāti Te Ata Waiohua, (and Samoan, Cook Island, Tahitian) arts organiser is making sure that the changes happening in the neighbourhood include everyone, that gentrification doesn’t push out three generations of locals.
What do they do?
Old and new Onehungans mix it up. Thousands of young people have joined arts programmes, developed social enterprises or eaten great kai at the monthly street markets, all hosted at The 312 Hub, while a few blocks away older residents, Indian and Latin American cultural groups make the most of the volunteer run Onehunga Community House in the original 1901 school house. Bridget Graham, who’s been a local stalwart for 55 years (27 of them in local government) says the waterfront restoration has residents expecting great things to follow (“we want to go back to being a seaside village”). She religiously supports each of the 20-some (at last count) cafes that have sprung up, celebrating the new layer of creative enterprises on the old fabric.
Gastro pub Good Home, on the site of the old Andrew Carnegie Free Library. Photo / Babiche Martens
Historic parks are heavily used by walkers and cyclists, the plentiful sports fields are a legacy of the old Borough Council, and there’s a YMCA-run gym and pool. For the big stuff, Waikaraka Park Speedway and Mount Smart stadium are in the ‘hood.
Graham claims there are more heritage buildings in Onehunga than in Parnell (and a fair few cemeteries for the curious). The magnificent Andrew Carnegie Free Library on Princes Street was restored into gastro pub The Good Home (yes, there are books and a portrait of the man himself), but there are plenty of old-fashioned home cookeries and a good range of Asian cuisine. Bikers can circle the waterfront, head over the bridge to pretty Māngere Bridge town, around that waterfront to Ambury Farm, mountain bike trails and the Ōtuataua Stonefields historic reserve and pa site.
What’s to love?
More like a small town - in a good way - than a suburb so close to the city, Onehunga has a thriving community feel. It is the centre of transport links from New Lynn, the city and to the south. The local bus, the 312, is so embedded in local culture that it names the thriving new youth arts centre, and is celebrated in music by local heroes SWIDT (re-awarded the Urban/Hip-Hop Album of the Year award by Aaradhna in 2016’s New Zealand Music Awards). The town will be on the light rail path from city to airport. There are parks, there’s now a beach, the ‘burb is surround by the maunga of Maungakiekie (One Tree Hill), Riukiuta (Three Kings), Rarotonga (Mt Smart) and Te Pane a Matāoho (Māngere Mountain).
Mustn’t grumble
The tyranny of highway 20 still cuts town off from the foreshore and soon-to-be revitalised wharf. NZTA’s proposal for the East West Link, a major motorway that will dominate the waterfront, has still not been taken off the table, but local politicians and the Onehunga Enhancement Society are vigorously lobbying (along with pushing for transmission lines to be undergrounded, clean-up of harbour sediment and enhancing connections via the old Māngere Bridge). While the rest of Auckland flocks to Dress Smart outlet mall, locals don’t see much benefit of the behemoth to their local shops or community, but are focussed on not letting their old 312 bus route disappear without a fight.
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22 George Terrace, Onehunga, Auckland
By negotiation
Agent: Sherryl Todd, Colliers, 021 222 6308
Rising close to Onehunga Bay reserve are 38 terraces and six apartments. Partially raised ceiling heights in the bedrooms, modern flows and clean lines. Floor to ceiling windows open out onto private balconies. Sound-proofed and built for efficiency, plus double glazing. Kitchens are euro-style and fitted out with the latest Fisher & Paykel appliances. Scheduled for completion mid-2019.
